Some of the epoxy kits available (click to enlarge)

One of the first things you will need to do is head to your local hardware store, board shop or marina to purchase your epoxy and hardener. For small repairs, most products offer a kit, such as the Starbrite Quick Set Adhesive, or the Devcon kits that are available. Basically, any five-minute epoxy will do. If you are choosing to match your colors, you will need to also pick up a pigment coloring kit as well. Some of the larger boat repair kits may include all of the items that you need to complete your repair.

Clean and Prep the Repair Area
As with any kind of repair, the first thing you will need to do is clean the area so the repair will last. Remove any dirt or loose particles from the repair area. You can use a mild soap to clean the surrounding areas, but make sure it's completely dry before you continue. To prep the repair area, take the pick or small screwdriver and dig into the area in need of repair. You are not hollowing out the area, but rather roughing it up. If you have room to work, the best method would be to crosshatch the area using crossing diagonal lines.

Masking the Area

Masking the board and creating a reservoir (click to enlarge)

You will first want to mask as close to the area to be repaired as possible to keep the rest of the board clean while you work. Be sure to wrap your tape around the edge to the other side of the board to protect your edge from any runs. Continue to mask off until you are about four to six inches from the repair area.

The next step would be wrapping the tape from the top sheet to the bottom of the board. Do this on both sides of the repair area working your way outward three to four inches depending on the size of your repair.

Now it is time to create a reservoir into which you will pour your epoxy mixture. You will take your tape and using the edges to create a cup along both sides of the repair. This reservoir will allow for the epoxy to flow into the repair area with fewer bubbles, and any excess can be cut and filed away later leaving a nice smooth repair.

Mixing and Coloring the Epoxy
In a well-ventilated area, mix your epoxy and hardener in a small cup using a Popsicle stick. Usually you'll use an equal amount of epoxy and hardener, but follow the directions for the product that you purchased. If you're going to try to match the color, add a drop or two of the coloring agent into the mix. It does not take much to set the color. Keep in mind that as your repair dries the color may be a shade darker than what you see in the wet mix.

Fill in the Repair
You've only got a few minutes before the epoxy starts to harden, so you have to work quickly now. Carefully pour or spoon the epoxy mixture into your reservoir. Be sure to stop before reaching the top so there is excess tape to close your opening. Pinch the tape together along the opening of your reservoir. I have also found it a good idea to add additional tape going from the top sheet to the bottom across the top of the reservoir to hold in the epoxy mixture.

Gravity is your friend. Once your repair is filled, you will want to position your board so that the repair is facing up. Let gravity help pull the epoxy into the repair area. If some of the epoxy leaks from the reservoir and drips down your board, do not be alarmed. Once dried, this

Clamping the board if pressure is necessary to close a split or separation (click to enlarge)

minimal amount can usually be scraped away with a fingernail.

If there was any splitting or separation involved in the damage, at this point it is recommended that you use a C-clamp to press and hold the area together. Use two small, flat pieces of wood or other soft material between the clamp and the board to avoid damage from the metal clamp. Only tighten the clamp finger tight to avoid any further damage. Multiple clamps may be necessary for a repair such as a crack along the edge.

The Wait
Now is the worst part - the wait. You will want to allow for the epoxy to cure completely before attempting to remove the masking tape or start any grinding or filing. Again it is recommended to follow your epoxy manufacturers direction for drying times. The thicker the repair, the longer the drying time will be.

For certain repairs you might need to trim the epoxy using a razor blade in order to reduce the amount of filing you'll have to do. If you plan to do this, you'll want to wait until the epoxy is hard enough to hold its shape, but still soft enough to cut.

Get It in Shape
Once the epoxy has fully cured, you can remove the clamps, if you used any, and begin to peel off your masking tape from around the repair area. Once all the tape is removed, the repair area should be filled and some excess material may be visible that will need to be removed.

If you have a steady hand, the quickest way to remove the

The finished repair (click to enlarge)

excess material is to use a Dremel tool. Starting with a cutting disk, reshape your repair to match the natural lines of the board. Next, switch to the sanding disk and smooth the area to match the rest of your board. Once you are satisfied with the shape, I have found that it cleans up the look if you run the polishing disk across the area once to finish it.

If you do not have a Dremel tool, or a steady hand, a file can be used in its place. Use a coarse file for removing excess material and a fine file for shaping. This picture shows a board after the repair has been completed. The white areas are actually where I got a little too aggressive with the filing. The board not only looks better, but it can now be ridden, so take it to the lake!

Wakeskates
Now that wakeskating is getting more popular and the skates are getting used a lot more, wakeskates have been seeing wear and tear. The same steps above can be used to repair your wakeskate. However, for wakeskates that are made out of wood, instead of using epoxy, go with a mix Elmer's Wood Glue and sawdust in a half and half ratio. Go through the above steps and then add a final step of applying a few coats of polyurethane on the repair and the surrounding area to protect the wood and repair from water.

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